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Saturday, July 10, 2010

Loco di Lupo - waiter, there's flint in my food

Crudita di mare - raw sea bream, red prawn, langoustine & scallop with rosemary oil
 Fried red prawns, squids, aubergine and lemon
 Linguine with spider crab and chilli
Tripe with guanciale, chilli & tomato 
Rustic pork and foie gras sausage with farro & porcini
Aubergine with anchovies and celery

LOCATION: Bocca di Lupo, Soho, London
CATEGORY: Italian
DRINK: Franciacorta Brut (Fratelli Berlucchi) and sparkling water (San Pellegrino)
WE THINK: what a disappointment. The dry foccaccia and luke-warm San Pellegrino set the tone for our first visit to this hyped Soho institution. Apart from the langoustine, the raw seafood was not particlarly fresh, and the bland rosemary oil did little to disguise it. The fried prawns and squid were ok but nothing spectacular, same can be said about the side dish of aubergines which were so sweet they left a coat of caramel on our teeth. The linguine was quite tasty but a tad salty and slightly overcooked. Then there was the tripe which looked good in writing but came out looking like...well the picture says it all. Though well-cooked and well-seasoned, the flavour was dominated by the coat of cheese which unannounced had made its way into the dish - a shame. Had it not been for what the kitchen apologetically identified as a 'piece of flint' in the farro accompanying the pork and foie gras sausage, this dish came close to being delicious and, on a balance, was probably the winner of the night. But the damage had already been done.

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