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Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Go Geranium!

Carrot and seabuck-thorn puff
Beetroot in gel of apple vinegar with cottage cheese
Lumpsucker fish roe with cress and horseradish
"Twigs" of Northsea cheese (Vesterhavsost) and ash
with dip of ramsons and parsley shoots
Crispy pig ear with sorrel and spinach
Clear tomato juice, gelled ham, tomato mousse, lemon thyme and flowers
Oyster from Limfjorden with cauliflower cubes, 


chips of melted smoked cheese and cauliflower foam
King crab with cucumber, garden sorrel, dill and tapioca
garnished with liquid nitrogen-frozen crab juice
Creamy rye, celery, celeriac, apples and unripe elderberries
"A tribute to grain, part 1"
Tiny bread rolls made with ancient grains, beer and buttermilk
"A tribute to grain, part 2"
Cheese matured on hay, roasted grains and various types of onions
Lightly smoked potatoes with potato foam, dried peas, roasted potatoes and lovage
Monkfish with mussels, seaweeds, quail egg, squid ink and fish eggs
"The herb garden", served in spherical "greenhouse"...
...
...and served with smoked lamb consomme
Veal tail with "poor man's truffles" (jerusalem artichokes in squid ink and truffle oil),
crispy lard and browned butter
Mild goats cheese topped with pickled rose-hip petals, beetroots and grain chips
Rasmus' Bocuse D'or trophies (bronze, gold and silver) posing in the kitchen
where we were invited to enjoy our palate cleanser (in the foreground)
consisting of foam made from biodynamic Danish apples
Ice granules made of carrot juice served with chervil stalks and preserved elderflowers
"Milk served peculiar ways" (from bottom and counter-clockwise):
caramel, yoghurt, sponge, ice cream, puff
Grain coffee, caramelised grain and preserved cloud berries
Interior, view to kitchen
Our wine waiter
Rasmus Kofoed (right)

LOCATION: Geranium, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8., Copenhagen
CATEGORY: Fine dining, Nordic
DRINK: Champagne: Fleury Blanc de Noir, White: Benjamin Leroux (2007) Chassagne-Montrachet, Premier Cru - Les Morgeots. Red: Bernard Van Berg (2005) Meursault, 'Le vin le plus simplement'
WE THINK: Our last visit to Copenhagen involved a mind-blowing meal at noma, currently regarded the world's best restaurant. Fully aware it would be hard to beat this experience, we tried our luck with the newly re-opened Geranium whose chef, Rasmus Kofoed, recently won gold at this year's Bocuse D'or, the chef world championship. The 'old' Geranium restaurant was located in the lovely, romantic King's Garden whereas the reincarnation is housed on the top floor of FC Copenhagen's colossal football stadium in slick, custom-designed rooms which together with the staff's matching Star Trek outfits and Geranium's new website (complete with animated macro photos of the interior), brings back memories of 2003. We decided to try the 20-course tasting menu called "Our Universe" (other choices were a boiled-down version of Our Universe with optional add-ons or a vegetarian menu). As for the wine, Geranium doesn't have a trained sommelier but instead several waiters 'with an interest in wine', one of whom helped us select a delicious white and a passable red. The 5 amuse bouches were served in the adjoining sitting room by friendly waiters who were happy to tell us about Rasmus' recent gold trophy and his 2 winning dishes - neither unfortunately to be found on Geranium's menu. The lumpfish roe and crispy pigs ears were really delicious - the ubiquitous variation on seabuck-thorn and carrot less so. The rest of our dinner took place in the dining room and was an ambitious and near fault-less presentation of very delicate, visually beautiful and light dishes; the tomato juice, the crab, the rye and celery, the flowers and the grain coffee being our favourites. While many of the dishes were on par with the best we have had, nothing springs to mind as particularly surprising or extraordinary and there were a few dishes which didn't impress (e.g. tough veal tails, certain elements in the monkfish dish, a conceptually interesting but tastewise not entirely successful milk dessert). On top of this, it's unfortunately hard not to compare Geranium with noma which remains in a league of its own when it comes to Nordic food. Overall, though, great experience which we'll happily repeat.

3 comments:

  1. hi in an italian journalist, do you guys have an email to write you?

    thank,
    davide

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Davide

    You can email us on ieateverywhere@gmail.com

    Many thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  3. did you get the email?
    thanks:)

    ReplyDelete

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